A Night of Thai-Indonesian Culinary Affair
Rumari at Raffles Bali has become one of my favorite dining destinations, and last night’s collaboration dinner between Chef Tam Chudaree Debhakam and Chef Gaetan Biesuz was yet another unforgettable experience. This was my fourth time dining at Rumari, and once again, the restaurant exceeded expectations with its impeccable storytelling, bold flavors, and refined execution.
The evening was a celebration of Thai and Indonesian cuisine, seamlessly woven together by two masters of their craft. Chef Tam, from Baan Tepa Bangkok, the two-Michelin-starred restaurant renowned for its sustainable and seasonal approach to Thai cuisine, brought the depth and vibrancy of Thai flavors. Meanwhile, Chef Gaetan, who I love for his ability to elevate Balinese and Indonesian cuisine, introduced unique touches that made the meal even more special.
The night began with four intriguing amuse-bouches, each setting the stage for the flavors to come. One of my absolute favorites was a delicate tart that tasted like Tom Yum bursting in my mouth—zesty, spicy, and aromatic, encapsulating the essence of Thailand in one bite. Another highlight was Chef Gaetan’s urutan donut, a clever and delicious play on the traditional Balinese pork sausage. These small bites packed so much depth, teasing the palate with unexpected yet harmonious flavor pairings.
The first course was Thai - Indo Nam Tok, a Tokusen Wagyu beef salad layered with green mango, fresh herbs, and sticky rice. Next was one of the standout dishes for me, the Dong Dang Bebek. This was my first time trying Dong Dang rice noodles, and they were incredibly smooth and flavorful, paired beautifully with duck, young jackfruit, and a touch of foie gras. It was rich yet balanced, comforting yet sophisticated. It kind of reminds me of the rice porridge that you can buy locally in the markets in Bali.
The Bread Course was an adventure in itself, with an array of house-baked selections served alongside inventive sambals. The nam prik grilled durian relish with fish floss was particularly intriguing and so delicious. It felt like a smooth plant based pate with just the right amount of sweetness and spice— my first time trying this exciting Thai condiment!
The Fish Clear Soup was beautiful. It featured buttery slices of Pak Oka’s line-caught bonito, floating in a delicate yet aromatic broth that was a cross between laksa, tom yum, and tom zap. The addition of thinly sliced watermelon radish gave it a fresh bite.
Then came what was arguably my favorite lobster dish so far—Lobster, Sambal Ulek. I’ve never been the biggest fan of lobster, as it’s often overcooked or lacking flavor, but this dish completely won me over. The lobster was juicy, perfectly cooked, and paired with a sauce that had just the right amount of spice. The lobster crackers, the lobster skewer and rice were also fantastic, adding layers of texture to the dish.
Finally the desserts! The Ginger Torch Flower Sorbet was refreshing, served with wild honey and osmanthus jelly that I loved. And the Rice Arak Caramel Caviar dish was a very interesting and luxurious close—black sticky rice cake with burnt banana leaf ice cream, a perfect harmony of smoky, sweet, and creamy elements.
By the end of the night, I was absolutely full, but every dish had been a joy to experience. This collaboration was a beautiful marriage of Thai and Indonesian flavors, a dialogue between two culinary traditions that complemented and enhanced each other. It was an honor to taste Chef Tam’s cooking, especially so soon after her recognition as Asia’s Best Female Chef 2025 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
I was also happy to be sharing the table with a friend, food writer and co-founder of ESA Restaurant, Kevindra Soemantri, and Chef-Owner at ESA, Aditya Muskita. Their insights and passion for gastronomy made the evening even more enjoyable, adding another layer of appreciation to this remarkable experience. Rumari continues to be a place where gastronomy meets artistry, and I can’t wait to return for my next unforgettable meal.