How Traditional and Modern Fashion Foster Unity and Cultural Pride in Bali
Bali, renowned as the Island of the Gods, is an unmatched tourism destination in Indonesia and is more than just a place for tourists to flock to for a quick getaway or for those who are looking for some “healing” and to “find themselves” again. And one of the most unique places on the planet that is celebrated for its rich traditions and spiritual practices. It is also a vibrant epicenter of traditional fashion that harmonizes culture and modernity. Here, traditional and contemporary fashion foster unity and cultural pride, reflecting the island's enduring heritage and progressive spirit.
The allure of Bali has captivated many, inspiring individuals with the promise of a luxurious lifestyle and lucrative business opportunities. This has propelled Bali's rapid development and positioned it as a haven for 'digital nomads.' As a result, quaint villages have transformed into cosmopolitan hubs teeming with creatives and entrepreneurs engaged in cultural exchanges and idea-sharing. Yet as a Balinese, amidst this transformation, I worry about the disappearing rice fields, the encroachment on ancestral lands, and the potential dilution of our cultural heritage. I have witnessed firsthand the significance of our unique customs in fostering unity within our society and shaping our identity. Immersed in Balinese rituals and local wisdom since birth, I have developed a deep appreciation for the island's dedication to preserving its cultural legacy and the vital role of community
It is our traditions that make the Balinese one of the most united societies in the world and our identity that makes us so special. Growing up immersed in Balinese rituals and local wisdom, I’ve come to appreciate the island's adherence to its cultural heritage. To give back, the least I can do is to pass it on, celebrate it, and try to protect it. This phenomenon happening in my backyard has driven me to explore and preserve my homeland’s culture in an era of rapid change.
As my home Island undergoes rapid change, I have embarked on a personal mission to document and narrate stories of Balinese culture by focusing on the intricate artistry and language of Balinese textiles. But why look at fashion to preserve culture?
Fashion has always been a reflection of society and the passing of time and there is still so much to uncover within the traditional fashion and textiles here. Clothing plays a significant role in our society to express our identity cultural pride, and unity. In fact, in Bali and Indonesia, traditional attire is revered as a symbol of cultural heritage. The obligatory batik for workers and traditional attire worn on specific days and during ceremonies underscores the deep-seated connection between clothing and cultural significance. Traditional Balinese fashion, characterized by intricate costumes, reflects the island's Hindu-Balinese heritage and serves as a visual representation of spiritual beliefs and social hierarchy. As a Balinese and fashion graduate, this quest is also about deepening my understanding of this extraordinary artisan craft, unveiling its profound significance, and satisfying my curiosity and endless questions.
The starting point for my story was the sacred textile called grinsging. And so I traveled to Tenganan Pegringsingan, a village in the Karangasem Regency of Bali known for producing one of the rarest textiles in the world: the double ikat. This textile, with its roots in ancient belief, is said to ward off sickness and is found only in two other nations, Japan and India. The name “gringsing” itself is a blend of “gring” (sickness) and “sing” (no). But I learned more about this textile than just its name, dying, and weaving process. Despite its prestige and value, the deeper philosophical significance of this textile is often overlooked, even by those within the village. Gringsing itself isn’t just about warding off sickness, but about keeping nature in harmony that will eventually create a healthy mind, body, and environment. Learning about this cloth has deepened my understanding of the Bali Aga, the island’s indigenous people, and their traditions, particularly the role of traditional attire and textiles in their cultural identity.
The general traditional Balinese fashion, outside of Tenganan, is also deeply rooted in the island's Hindu-Balinese culture, with each garment serving as a symbol of spiritual significance and social status. In our daily ceremonial dressing, we wear a kamen or woven tenun sarong wrapped around the waist, paired with the iconic kebaya—a delicate lace or embroidered blouse, found all across the archipelago, and a sash around the waist. Men’s traditional attire includes a baju safari, a saput, and a headpiece called udeng. This pakaian adat is worn for various ceremonies and community events, in most of Bali, serving as a daily reminder of the island's cultural heritage. Beyond the general attire, Bali’s ceremonial and matrimonial dressing, such as Payas Agung and Payas Madia, showcases regional variations and pride. Wearing these clothes is an act of preserving and celebrating Balinese traditions, ensuring that the cultural narrative is continuously passed down through generations.
In contrast, Tenganan Pegringsingan has a different way of dressing compared to the rest of Bali. It adheres more strictly to traditional customs. The attire here is more modest and down-to-earth, reflecting the village’s commitment to its cultural guidelines, or awig- awig. Women typically wear cloth wrapped around their bodies, while men remain topless, with gringsing and jewelry reserved for special occasions. The village’s customs also emphasize gender equality, with equal inheritance rights for men and women—a philosophy mirrored in the weaving of gringsing. The process of tying the threads in weaving gringsing symbolizes the union of masculine and feminine energies, reflecting the belief in achieving balance and harmony.
While the Bali Aga dressing and kain gringsing must not be modified, the modern Balinese fashion has seen many revolutions just like the state of the Island itself. This raises questions on how to incorporate a sacred textile like gringsing without eroding its traditional values but still allowing organic growth and creative freedom for designers, fashion enthusiasts, and stylists. So the next question is how to balance modernity and tradition.
The rise of modern fashion has introduced a dynamic interplay between local and global influences. Modern Balinese designers are adept at blending traditional elements with contemporary trends, creating a fashion scene that is both innovative and respectful of its roots. Both traditional and modern fashion play crucial roles in fostering unity among the Balinese people. Traditional attire connects individuals to their cultural roots, serving as a visual representation of their shared heritage and collective identity. During major ceremonies and festivals, such as the Galungan and Kuningan, the sight of everyone dressed in traditional garments strengthens community bonds and reaffirms cultural values.
Conversely, modern fashion creates a space where younger generations can express their individuality while still honoring their cultural heritage. This fusion allows for a dynamic cultural exchange, where traditional values are celebrated in new and innovative ways. For example, Balinese youth might wear traditional fabrics in modern cuts, creating a contemporary look that resonates with global fashion trends while maintaining a connection to their cultural roots.
Gringsing, along with other textiles like songket and endek, remains central to Balinese cultural pride. The weaving industry also continues to evolve, with new techniques and styles emerging while preserving traditional methods. Events like the annual Pesta Kesenian Bali (PKB) celebrate these textiles, bringing together weavers and designers from nine regencies to display their unique innovative traditional, and contemporary collections.
These traditional textiles have also been fused into many modern designs by designers such as Sapto Djojokartiko and Biyan, making them part of their DNA as an Indonesian fashion house. Emerging designers, such as Tangan Privé, a personal favorite of mine, have also taken part in elevating these traditional fabrics with contemporary designs, blending heritage with modern aesthetics. The global fashion scene has also taken notice: in 2020, Dior featured kain endek from Bali in its Spring-Summer 2021 collection, highlighting the island’s vibrant fashion heritage on an international stage.
By honoring and evolving sartorial traditions, Balinese people can reinforce their cultural identity and ensure that the rich history of their island is celebrated and remembered. Modern fashion, on the other hand, offers a platform for innovation, allowing the younger generation to engage with their cultural heritage in a way that feels relevant to their contemporary lives. This dynamic interplay fosters a sense of unity and pride that resonates across generations, ensuring that Bali's cultural narrative continues to thrive in both traditional and modern forms, proving fashion is a powerful tool for promoting cultural pride and preserving heritage.
I am truly proud to witness the evolution of Balinese and Indonesian fashion, from the traditional kebaya to innovative modern designs that incorporate traditional textiles and techniques. As Bali’s fashion continues to evolve, it strengthens our sense of unity and cultural pride, celebrating the rich heritage that binds us together as Balinese and Indonesians.
*Written for Suara Zine by Sophia Rogan